Monday, August 29, 2011

Review: Jiko - May 23rd

Jiko is one of my favorite restaurants at Walt Disney World. I think it is a combination of the decor/ambiance and the food which is a mix of familiar dishes with subtle exotic touches.

We arrived at the Animal Kingdom Lodge early, and I am a bit ashamed to say this is the very first time that we have seen the Animal Kingdom Lodge in the daylight!! Our Jiko reservations have always been later in the evening. We were delighted as we wandered out to the pool area. We are actually quite tempted to stay here in 2012.

Animal Kingdom Lodge Lobby
We checked in at the podium and requested a table by the window. After a brief wait in the adjacent bar area our pager went off and we were escorted to a lovely table by the windows. This particular table is my favorite in the whole restaurant as you can see out the window, back to the sunset wall and across to the cooking place.

Much to our surprise we were greeted by a server we have had previously at Jiko, Dawn. She is attentive, likes to joke a bit and paces the meal perfectly. She also makes outstanding wine suggestions.

Place Setting
Mom & Dad selected a bottle of wine. I believe it is a Rudi Schultz Shiraz or Syrah. They adore this wine and sadly we cannot get it in Canada

I had a glass of Riesling. It was crisp, acidic and had mild apple & pear notes.

Shortly after our drink orders were placed, Dawn dropped off some of Jiko's sinfully good bread. The bread itself is light and airy with a delicate texture and subtle sweet wheat flavor. It pairs perfectly with what I believe is the best butter on the face of the earth: Tandoori Butter.

I would kill to know the exact blend of spices. This butter is spicy (in a flavorful way as opposed to adding heat), warming, tangy and sweet. There is definitely cumin, turmeric, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg etc... but I can't get the blend and the combination right.

Honey Wheat and Flax Breads with Tandoori Butter
The bread was so good that we asked for more midway through the meal! Funny side story: The last time I went to Jiko it was just my best friend and I. Well, I brought my parents back an order of this bread and butter and you'd have thought I brought them foie gras and caviar!

We shared three appetizers to start:

Grilled Wild Boar Tenderloin - with Mealie Pap, Chakalaka, White Truffle Oil and Micro Cilantro
WOW! This was delicious. The boar was very tender and not gamey at all. It was like a very intense pork flavor with some richer fattier undertones. Mealie Pap is a variation on a polenta and Chakalaka is similar to a spicy Ratatouille.

Close up shot of the Wild Boar
Next up was:

Crispy Beef "Bobotie" Roll - with Cucumber Raita, Green Mango Atjar, and Honey-roasted Groundnuts
So good! Bobotie is a spiced meat and in this case it was wrapped in what resembled spring rolls but the wrappers were thicker and sturdier than your typical spring roll wrapper. The tender meat is spiced to perfection and the slight heat is cooled by the cucumber raita and balanced by the sweet and tart mango atjar. The groundnuts add a lovely crunch and are quite similar to peanuts.

Lastly we have:

Cheese Selection
Unfortunately I don't have my cheese menu handy. I will come back and update this later tonight.

For entrees, Mom had:

Sikhumbuzo's Peri Peri Chicken - with Herb-Crushed Potatoes, French Beans, Mango Sambal, and Onion Jus
Dawn explained that Sikhumbuzo is one of the chefs from Africa, and that this dish was the winner of a contest amongst the chefs. Mom loved it and said it took chicken to a whole new level.

Dad & I each had:

Braised Beef Short Rib - Truffled Potato Puree, Pearl Onions, Baby Carrots, and Cabernet-Tamarind Sauce
Holy mother of god! This may be the best beef dish I have ever tasted. Now, I am partial to braised beef so that could be influencing my opinion. This was gloriously rich and the tamarind added an unexpected sweetness to the red wine reduction. The sweetness of the carrots and onion paired well with the rich cut of beef and the star was the julienne of green apple. So unexpected and so perfect.
After dinner, Dawn "tricked" us into ordering three desserts!

Cappuccinos and Vanilla Rooibos Tea
We started with cappuccinos for DMom & DDad and Vanilla Rooibos Tea for me. I am not a big tea drinker but this was delicious. It was soothing and sweet and warm after a large, heavy meal. I have to make a mental note to order it at the Garden View Tea in October.

My dessert selection was:

"Coffee & Chocolate" - Tanzanian Chocolate Mocha Mousse with a Hazelnut Crunch Base, Hot Chocolate sauce and ganache sugar cubes
Isn't that the most adorable dessert you've ever seen?? They even have little chocolate details that look like steam rising out of the coffee!

It was sensationally good too! The mousse was rich with a slight hint of bitterness, the crunch base provided texture, the white & milk chocolate ganache sugar cubes added lightness and the sauce was so good I wanted to lick the plate clean.

Close up shot of "Coffee & Chocolate"
Mom's selection was:

"Cheesecake, Caramel and Toffee" - Creamy Madagascar Vanilla Cheesecake with Salted Caramel, Macadamia-Almond Toffee, Whipped Cream, and Chocolate-covered Coffee Beans
This was the lightest and most wonderful cheesecake I have ever tasted. It wasn't dense and heavy like a New York style (which is fantastic in its own right). The salted caramel played well off the savoury notes in the cheesecake and the toffee....oh the toffee. We practically fought over it! In fact, Dawn noticed how much we enjoyed it and brought us this:

Extra toffee from the best server at Jiko, Dawn
Lastly, Dad's selection was:

Amarula Crème Brûlée with a Spiced Chocolate-layered Bottom, and White Chocolate, Cranberry, and Pistachio Biscotti
This was a very well executed crème brûlée. Often I find that the sugar crust isn't thick enough. We likened this to a new take on the pairing of orange and chocolate as amurula liqueur has a fruity almost orange-like flavor and the addition of the chocolate bottom really made this crème brûlée unique.

Just as we were ready to be rolled out the door after consuming far more food than we typically would, Dawn brought these:

Vanilla & Chocolate Butter Cookies
They were a delicate butter cookie topped with shavings of dark chocolate. Delicious, but anything else and I would have exploded at that point.

We adored Jiko this trip and are eagerly awaiting our return on October 3rd.

Friday, August 26, 2011

Every bite was sheer perfection....a Victoria & Albert's review - September 27th 2009

There are not enough words to describe Victoria & Albert's in detail as to actually understand the opulence of the experience....ok so opulence was my first "$10 word" in this review....shoot me, I'm a writer. Let's just put it this way, we enjoyed the experience so much that we returned just shy of 6 month later in March 2010, then again in October 2010 and we are approaching our 4th meal at Victoria & Albert's in October 2011.

The price tag is high, but for what you receive--a life experience--it is so very worth it. I highly recommend it to anyone who wants to feel pampered beyond their wildest dreams, taste food that was prepared with a perfectionist's eye and be whisked back to a time when everyone "dressed" for dinner and meals were, in themselves, a source of entertainment.

I can tell you with no hesitation whatsoever that I now know what bliss feels like. I can honestly say that every single bite of everything I had at Victoria and Albert's was PERFECTION.

We arrived at 5:15pm and from the moment we walked through those frosted glass and polished wood doors we felt as though we were in another world. It was beautiful, dimly lit, elegant, and yet incredibly comfortable and inviting. Our meal was exceptionally long and paced impeccably. We left the restaurant at 8:55pm, after a tour of the kitchen.

We were seated at a table in the main room, near the entrance of the restaurant. I was thrilled as it was located directly under a pot light. My photos turned out beautifully as a result of the extra light, and I did not have to use a flash and take away from the overall atmosphere.

The service is flawless, your seat is pulled out, napkin placed across your lap, seat pushed in, ladies are offered stools for their purses. Shortly after we were seated Dan, one of our 3 servers for the evening came and filled our water glasses, offered pre-dinner drinks and explained that our serving team would consist of himself, Mike and another gentleman whose name I sadly cannot recall.

Here are some pictures of our table:



As you can see by the emptiness of the restaurant, we were accepted relatively early for our 6pm reservation. I would say the first seating ended up being about 2/3rds full.

Three of the most flawless red roses I have ever seen

A lamp provides soft lighting

Full Centerpiece

Mike, the second member of our serving team (who turned out to be our "primary" server) came to hand us each our menus. My Dad is allergic to white fleshed fish (but can eat tuna, salmon, shellfish etc) and both my Dad and I are allergic to mouldy cheeses such as blue.

Therefore, my Mom, my Dad and I received three different menus, varying only slightly from one another.

We were all given the same "amuse bouche" which Mike described as a "Celebration of Summer Tomato"

I will start this off by saying that tomatoes are about the only ingredient I "hate" in their raw form, but there was no way I was leaving any piece of this amuse untouched.

I apologize in advance...I was so excited to try this that I accidentally ate the majority of the top left corner before taking a picture.

Starting from the top left corner we had:
Buffalo mozzarella, heirloom cherry tomatoes, toasted pine nuts and extra virgin olive oil
I still dislike the texture of tomato, but from a taste perspective this was creamy, tangy and rich. A great bright start to the meal. This was the "safest" and most traditional of the amuse offerings.

Top right corner:
An organic hen's egg filled with roasted tomato and fennel custard
Once again, I thought "Oh great, they are batting a thousand, I really don't like fennel or eggs either" Oh my god was I wrong. The custard was silky, still warm and tasted like the most wonderful tomato sauce you could ever imagine. It was earthy, slightly sweet with a gentle acidity, I couldn't taste either the tomato or fennel independently, they were simply accents in an overall taste. My favourite of the amuse offerings.

Bottom right corner:
Roma Tomato Sorbet with Olive Oil Powder
What amazed me most about this amuse was that I didn't touch it until VERY last and it was still perfectly cold and set. This was a brighter flavour than the custard and the olive oil powder tasted entirely different from the olive oil drizzled on the caprese salad. This was the most refreshing of the amuse offerings.

Bottom left corner:
Sliver of heirloom tomato with a pesto and cherry tomato vinaigrette, topped with olive oil poached octopus
I must admit, this was a bit scary at first. I've seen octopus many times and find it rather intimidating. However, as I looked at this amuse, I pondered the fact that I have eaten escargot and that this really can't be any "worse" (I love escargot). It had a surprising texture, like a cross between chicken and shrimp, it was very lightly seasoned, allowing the natural "sea salt" flavour to come through. All in all I thought it was surprisingly good. This was the most risky amuse in my opinion.

Your order is taken all at once, Mike explained that this was to aid with the flow of the meal, no interruptions, just course after course of glorious food. Just before our first course the first of three bread courses was served.

French Baguette with Unsalted European Style Butter

Mike explained that the butter is made from Vermont cream and that each bread course has a different butter pairing. The unsalted is paired with the baguette because true baguette should be appreciated for its flavor, therefore the lack of salt actually allowed you to taste the bread more.

This was heavenly! The bread was still warm, with a slight crust. Though it doesn't quite compare to authentic baguette I've had in Paris, it was the closest I've ever come to that taste in North America.

Our first course, the Cold Appetizer was served shortly after the bread.

We all selected the same item:
Sesame Crusted Big Eye Tuna with Tat Soi Salad, Lotus chips, Tamari Honey Foam, Tuna Carpaccio topped with Tuna Tartare and wasabi caviar

On the left was a tuna carpaccio, topped with a tuna tartare. This was very bright and citrus-y in flavor. The cubes for the tartare were ever so slightly seared, as though they simply rolled the tuna over a grill to provide additional texture. The lace thin carpaccio was like eating tuna paper, it simply melted away on your tongue.
Tuna carpaccio, topped with a tuna tartare

In the centre was the tamari honey foam, which paired well with both tuna offerings. Just above the foam was a bit of wasabi tobiko and a small piece of seabean.

On the right was the seared tuna, two generous slices, coated in sesame seeds and wasabi powder. This was layered like a napoleon with crispy lotus chips, tot soi (which is an asian mustard green related to bok choy) and crystallized ginger.
Seared tuna with sesame seeds and wasabi powder

Of the two, the offering on the right was out of this world! It was earthy and rich, and very addictive. I am not normally a fan on sesame seeds as I feel they can overpower a dish, but these were lightly toasted and nutty, providing a fantastic contrast to the cool meaty tuna and the earthy salty soy sauce. I could have eaten several of these but we still had 5 courses to go!

Our second course was the Fish Course. This course was slightly problematic for my Dad as he is allergic to white fleshed fish such as halibut, sole, snapper etc, but can eat red fleshed fish like tuna, salmon etc. He can also eat shellfish.

Normally, Dad would have been happy to select salmon, but this evening Victoria & Albert's had something very special on the menu, which I ordered.

White King Salmon with California Asparagus, Crab Sphere and Sauce Bearnaise

Mike, explained that white king salmon is exceptionally rare. Only 5% of the wild king salmon is classified as white or ivory. The reason for the pale flesh is that the fish does not absorb the same chemical pigment as other salmon (by eating shrimp etc.). He explained that it was likely a once in a lifetime chance to eat this particular fish.

Dad was hesitant to try the fish, as it was white fleshed and could pose a risk for an allergic reaction.

I, on the other hand, am a big fan of salmon. I was excited to try something so rare. This tasted entirely different than red salmon, it was saltier, richer and had a slightly more dense texture. It paired very well with the Bearnaise and the asparagus. I was particularly fond of the slivers of asparagus on the plate. Topping the salmon was a "crab sphere" which was basically a perfectly executed crab cake.

My Mom adores white fish, but due to Dad's allergy it is exceptionally rare that we get to have it, so she jumped at the chance to order:

Halibut with Zellwood Corn and Bamboo Rice Ragout

From what I can recall this was actually served with a corn ragout and a polenta rather than bamboo rice. DMom raved about it and was surprised by the large portion. She said the sweetness of the corn complimented the fish very well.

Dad wasn't particularly enthusiastic about ordering off the vegetarian menu as he had been hoping for a salmon or shellfish replacement for his course, however as soon as he saw the following item listed he was sold!

Timbale of Ratatouille with 100 year old Balsamic

Ever since my Dad saw Ratatouille he has wanted to try the namesake dish, and what better place than at Victoria & Albert's?

The cylinder is made of a sliver of zucchini, with finely diced, rich and flavorful ratatouille in the centre. It was topped with a Parmesan cracker, surrounded by peeled heirloom cherry tomatoes and finished with 3 drops of 100 year old balsamic (cleverly in hidden Mickey form). Mike told us that those 3 drop equaled about $15 worth of balsamic.

I would kill to replicate this! The perfect dice made the vegetables indistinguishable from on another, taking away that visual distraction added to focusing on the flavor as a whole rather than its parts. I detest all the vegetables that make up ratatouille on their own, but this was fresh and earthy, as though the vegetables had been saturated in balsamic. Anyone who knows of umami - the sixth taste in Japanese culture - that is the PERFECT way to describe this dish.

After our fish course we were served the second bread.

Brioche with Chives, Garlic Shoots and Lemon Balm served with Herbed Butter

This was easily the best bread course! I have had brioche in Paris that hasn't been as good as this. The crust was crisp and flaky, the bread was buttery and airy. It was remarkable and I could have eaten an entire loaf! The herbs were delicate and complimented the richness of the bread by adding brightness and a "grassy" flavor. The butter was made with the same herbs but managed not to be overpowering.

Shortly after our second bread, our hot appetizer was presented. I must point out that in past V&A menus (I think 2007 and earlier) I noted that the hot appetizer was served as the second course, after the cold. I think the switch, fish course as second, is much better in terms of flow because the cold appetizer is seafood 99% of the time.

Just recently I have gotten very into duck, so when I was the next course I knew it was for me. Dad is also a big fan, especially of duck confit, so we each had the duck offering.

Duck Breast, Duck Sausage with Rhubarb and Salsify and Duck Confit with Duck Proscuitto, with Cherry Reduction Sauce

This was a wonderful dish, if you love duck, you will absolutely love this! From left to right there were two succulent slivers of duck breast, in the middle there was a house-made duck sausage with salsify and rhubarb, and on the right was a roulade of duck confit. Across the top of the plate was a cherry reduction that tasted like a red wine reduction with subtle fruity tones. Across the bottom was a puree of rhubarb.

The duck breast was cooked to a juicy medium, the sausage had a very light, savoury spice to it, which paired very well with the onion-y taste of salsify and the sour twang of rhubarb. The roulade was filled with tender, rich shards of perfect confit. All the pairings went perfectly with the cherry sauce.

Mom is not a fan of duck, but she adores mushrooms and chicken, so this was made for her.

Poulet Rouge with Mushroom-Truffle Ragout, English Peas and Yellow Chanterrelles

The breast of poulet rouge was stuffed with thigh meat, and a wild mushroom and truffle duxelle. It was then rolled in panko bread crumbs. This was divine! I had one bite and wished I had chosen this course. I am not the biggest fan of mushrooms, but this was a blend of rich and earthy flavors as opposed to a distinct "mushroom" flavor.

After our hot appetizer we were presented with the last bread.

Multigrain with Wheat, Oats, Barely, Flax and Sunflower Seeds served with European Style Salted Butter

Mike explained that most multigrain breads lack salt and that is often why they aren't devoured as white breads like baguette and brioche.

I was surprised I liked this bread as much as I did. Normally I am not a fan of multigrain, but this had a lovely crust and a flavor that was more along the lines of a perfect white bread with compliments from each of the grains added. The salted butter added the perfect punch and made the bread more "crave-able."

You would think by know that we would be about ready to bust at the seams, with three courses remaining and having eaten so much already, but this was not the case. The portion sizes are yet another of the "perfect" elements of Victoria & Albert's. Each was enough to be satisfying, but not too much.

While we each contemplated the upgrades for the meat course, we had decided to try the meal as it was set for the prix fixe. After seeing many pictures of the following course I knew exactly what I wanted to order.

Kurobuta Pork Tenderloin and Belly with Baby Beets, Root Vegetable Gratin and Sherry Bacon Vinaigrette

Our server explained that Kurobuta Pork is like "the pork our grandparents ate, rich, flavorful and moist" and he was exactly right. This was unlike any pork tenderloin I've ever eaten. It was served slightly more rare that I would usually order (I would say it was medium, wheras I typically eat pork medium well). The picture makes it look shockingly rare and most of my friends have asked if I was trying to "kill myself" by eating raw pork. The pairings were spot on, the beets were sweet, the bacon sherry vinaigrette was smokey and the root vegetable gratin (potato, parsnip and turnip) was creamy and delightful. I am not a fan of turnip or parsnip, thinking them too bitter, but they were indistinguishable, they simple added a different of texture and subtly of flavor that you cannot achieve with potato alone. I nearly licked the plate clean.

I am not the world's biggest fan of lamb, not for moral reasons but simply because I don't like the taste that much. I find it can be very gamey. However, Mom & Dad adore it.

Niman Ranch Lamb with Fall Vegetables and Celery Root

The lamb was tender and not "gamey" in the slightest. The celery root puree is the green on the plate. The purple spheres are "marbles" or purple potato. The cylinder is made from crispy potato strings and filled with carrots, radishes etc. I believe the sauce beneath the lamb was a jus or reduction.

There was a brief pause between our meat course and our pre-dessert course.

I was torn between the cheese and the gelato. I adore cheese plates, but the ice cream lover in my HAD to try the house-made gelato, even though I am not a big fan of white chocolate.

White Chocolate Gelato with Micro Spearmint and Tableside White Chocolate Shavings

I have never felt that white chocolate has flavor. Oh god was I wrong! It does have flavor, it is sweet and rich and wonderful. I could have eaten a bowl of this as my dessert. The table-side shavings add crunch to the delightfully smooth gelato and I am still marveling at how they were able to serve this at the PERFECT temperature, not so cold that you struggle to get your spoon through, but not so soft that it becomes ice cream "soup."

Mom and Dad had no deliberation whatsoever, they wanted cheese! Because Dad and I are allergic to moldy cheese, the blue on his plate was replaced by an aged gouda.

Colston Bassett Stilton, Coach Farm's Goat, 16 month aged parmigiano-reggiano and Thomasville Tomme

Gouda Beemster XO, Coach Farm's Goat, 16 month aged parmigiano-reggiano and Thomasville Tomme

I tried a bit of each cheese expect the stilton, because I am allergic to blue cheese as well. This was easily the best cheese plate we have ever had and we frequently get them at California Grill and Jiko.

And now, the heavenly dessert course.

The Celebes Coffee Process is one of the coolest things I have ever seen! Our server delivered this interesting looking machine to our table, the top bowl filled with coffee grinds and the bottom with water. A small lamp is lit and the water percolated up into the bowl with the grinds before rushing back down into the lower bowl as rich, delicious coffee. It is such an inventive means of percolation! The entire process takes about 10 or 15 minutes and is fascinating to watch. I am not generally a fan of coffee but this was delicious, smooth with very little bitter aftertaste that I detest so much.


I am a chocoholic at heart, so I didn't even have to look at the menu when it came to dessert. The moment I sat down at Victoria & Albert's I knew what I was getting for my last course.

Tanzanian Chocolate Pyramid with Hazelnut Crisp, Edible 24 carat gold and strawberries, Hawaiian Kona Chocolate Soufflé with Godiva Anglais, Peruvian Chocolate Ice Cream on Chocolate Puff Pastry

Peruvian Chocolate Ice Cream, Chocolate Puff Pastry, Chocolate "eyelash" and Whipped Cream

Kona Chocolate Souffle with Godiva Anglaise

Tanzanian Chocolate Pryamid with Hazelnut Tuille and Strawberries

Oh sweet merciful god, this was the best chocolate dessert I've ever had (And I've had Marcel Desaulniers' Death by Chocolate)

It is easy to pick a favorite - the Kona Souffle wins by a land slide and I think I would get it on its own next time.

The weakest was the Tanzanian Chocolate Pyramid. It was not bad by any means, but simply the most "boring" to be as it tasted like a basic chocolate mousse, with a hint of complexity from the type of chocolate used.

Mike strongly recommended the dessert selected by both my Mom & Dad. He said that whenever the staff of Victoria & Albert's pick a dessert, they opt for this:

Caramelized Banana Gateau - Toffee Cylinder, Sponge Cake, Marscapone Cream, Macadamia Crunch, Caramelized Bananas, House-made Spun Sugar, Bruleed Bananas

I am not a big fan of bananas, but everything else in this dish calls to the salty sweet side of me, the side that craved sea salt caramels and chocolate dipped pretzels. It was absolutely wonderful (and that description is just from the 1 bite that I got!).

Feeling exceptionally fully from our delightful meal we requested a tour of the kitchen to pay our compliments to the chef! The kitchen is an entirely different world. We were between services so it was relatively quiet, but I'd imagine it is busy and loud when service is in full swing. It is surprisingly small for the quantity and quality of food produced. Here are a few pictures:

This is the pass, where all courses must pass inspection by the chef before being sent out to diners

The mise en place was all set for the next service, starting with the amuse bouche course

When we finished our tour of the kitchen, and our brief meeting with Chef Hunnel, we returned to our table. We were presented with friandise (after dinner sweets) and despite feeling like we couldn't eat another morsel we couldn't resist.

Friandise - after dinner sweets

My Mom and I were each presented with a rose, and my Dad was presented with an orange fig bread intended for breakfast the next morning. And with that, our extravagant meal drew to a close but we knew we would return soon as the experience was wonderful enough to have us dying to return.